Sunday, January 18, 2009

Satisfying Saturday

We awoke to a cold and rainy morning here in Sahagún. I’m reflecting on a near perfect day yesterday. First, there was the Saturday market, not up to summer standards, but extensive nevertheless. We looked at the produce, bought some wonderful cheeses, and Elyn got herself a warm wrap to take the winter chill off. Then we met Rebekah, Paddy, and the two young (26-year-old) Americans they have visiting them. Adam is a fine guitarist and Marta is a singer. We were treated to a short concert late in the evening after a lovely dinner at the Peaceable Kingdom (Rebekah and Paddy’s home in Moratinos) of which, more later.

We spent time having coffee in R. and P.’s favorite bar as we got to know Adam and Marta. Such delightful young people! They give me hope for the future when I see intelligence, wit, drive, and optimism in the next generation. Perhaps we will muddle through to a better world after all. Or maybe I’m just basking in the promise that a new administration in Washington brings. I know that “happily ever after” is just for the fairy tales, but it's good to think that we will have some new, fresh minds at the helm.

Rebekah has dreams of a concert series here in Sahagún and Adam and Marta may be the leading attractions for the first concert. To put her plan in motion, she needs the permission of the mayor to use the local auditorium. Enter Paca, the matriarch of our “family” here in Sahagún. Paca and her family go back many generations here and she knows everybody and doesn’t miss much that goes on. She has “enchufe” as they say here. She is “plugged in” and has pull with all the local authorities. We met Paca at the Liberia Luna and introduced her to the two Americans. Paca took over from there and became the instant center of attention, with a flood of stories, jokes, and dramatic gestures. She took us up to her apartment for refreshments and much talk. Pace will be 82 in February and she is a force to behold. She will go with Rebekah and Adam to meet the mayor on Monday, which will probably seal the deal on using the local facilities for R.’s planned concerts.

After a short rest, Rebekah picked us up to go to the Peaceable. This was the first time we have seen the place in the daytime, so we were given the grand tour. (If you haven’t done so already, you should visit Rebekah’s blog at http://moratinoslife.blogspot.com/ to see the place and what they have accomplished there.) They have quite a spread, with a walled farm yard at the back, a bodega (wine cellar) dug into an adjacent hill, and many rooms, stables, and storage areas, with a delightful central court yard. They have done a lot of work to renovate this place. It is built from the usual adobe over a brick foundation that goes back to Moorish times. There was much serious conversation covering the Gaza fiasco, the downed plane in the Hudson River, Jewish history and genealogy, and the wonders of technology (we took our MacBook Air with us and joined Paddy, who was surfing the net using their Wi-Fi connection). What a strange and wonderful world we live in. They have wireless internet in this ancient Spanish villa.

Altogether, it was a satisfying and enjoyable evening, punctuated with a luscious dinner that Rebekah served. There was pollo de corral (chicken from the farm yard), bread stuffing, and cauliflower, followed by goat cheese from the market and sweets that we brought from our favorite bakery in Sahagún. (Sometime I’ll write a piece about the shops and stores we regularly visit here.)

Then Adam played several pieces for us, some from the standard guitar literature, some pieces that he has unearthed here in Spain, and even some new works that have been written for him. He and Marta are living in Madrid, where he is studying contemporary Spanish guitar literature on a Fulbright Fellowship. He plans to produce a CD of the new literature he is discovering and bringing about. Describing musical performance in words is an art that escapes me, but I can say that the innovations in guitar performance that Andre Segovia brought about have borne fruit in a dramatic way in Adam’s performance. One hears the guitar, not as a single instrument, but a complete orchestra in his playing. It was truly the dessert and topper for a delightful day. Life is so good here!

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